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El Bulli: mort, sang, merda i terra

Fragment de la portada del llibre de Hannah Collins
Fragment de la portada del llibre de Hannah Collins

L’home actual, especialment el de ciutat, ha perdut el contacte amb la mort, amb la sang, amb la merda i amb la terra, elements essencials

Diu la llegenda que els nens de ciutat es pensen que la llet surt dels envasos de Tetra Brik i que els pollastres es passen la vida plomats tal com se’ns ofereixen al mostrador de la carnisseria. Això ens ho diem a la Catalunya rural per  provocar-nos el cofoisme de no ser tan ases com els urbanites. Sigui cert o no, sí que coincideixo amb José Ortega y Gasset quan planteja a "La rebelión de las masas" que l’home de la nostra era, pel fet de trobar-se en una societat altament civilitzada, es pensa que tot li ve donat com una mena de regal diví. Ortega ho exposa parlant de la civilització, de la qual l’home-massa modern en vol tots els avantatges però no fa res per sostenir-la ni per defensar l’imperi de la cultura sobre de la natura. Jo ara, però, ho introdueixo per parlar d’una qüestió molt més primària: allò que manduquem.

Poc que ens parem a pensar d’on surt el que posem sobre la taula, sinó que ja ens ho trobem tot fet. La llegenda dels nens de ciutat ens serveix per il·lustrar que les urbs occidentals són proveïdes diàriament d’aliments que han vingut dels més diversos indrets rurals però que el consumidor se’ls troba perfectament empaquetats i disposats sobre les prestatgeries dels supermercats. L’home actual, especialment el de ciutat, ja perdut el contacte amb la mort, amb la sang, amb la merda i amb la terra, que són elements essencials perquè cada dia puguem anar amb l’estómac ple.

El passat 6 de juliol es va inaugurar a la Fundació Suñol l’exposició de fotografia "El festí fràgil" de Hannah Collins, una britànica assentada a Barcelona. És una mostra d’un total de 250 fotografies que fa un seguiment, des de l’origen fins al plat, de 30 ingredients emprats a El Bulli de Ferran Adrià. Ha acompanyat l’exposició amb un llibre escrit per ella mateixa on situa geogràficament cada un dels productes perseguits –fent-nos tenir en compte que la cuina de El Bulli no seria possible sense la globalització- i narra les tasques dels productors que treballen incansablement en la penombra per omplir-nos un plat a taula per tal que ens quedi clar que res d’això apareix per generació espontània, de la mateixa manera que es pensa l’home-massa d’Ortega que la civilització s’aguanta tota sola. La mateixa fotògrafa comentava durant la roda de premsa, un pèl fastiguejada, que no es pensava que havia de veure tanta sang, com quan se li va ocórrer captar el conill com a ingredient o seguir uns pescadors en les seves feines diàries. El millor restaurant del món, la mostra més alta de civilització alimentària, no està exempt de tractar amb la natura més vil.

Si hom té una tarda lliure se la pot passar a El Bulli, que s’ha traslladat de Roses a la part alta del Passeig de Gràcia: mentre a la Fundació Suñol Collins ens fotografia artísticament el producte, a la vorera del davant, al Palau Robert, ja fa mesos que funciona –i ho farà fins el febrer vinent- l’exposició  "Ferran Adrià i El Bulli. Risc, llibertat i creativitat" . Aquesta darrera, molt atractiva museogràficament parlant, encara El Bulli en un sentit global, des de la seva història, passant per la seva filosofia i acabant amb els seus resultats. 

 

www.andreupujolmas.cat 

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